August 20, 2008
Wow-I didn’t anticipate being away from my blogging for this long, but then, a tour that didn’t end with some kind of drama just wouldn’t be a real tour. Last summer, it was my bitter war with British Airways, which all began with a misplaced Aeroflot ticket. This summer, it was a (albeit less maddening) war with Delta. Now, I don’t want to talk too much about touring on this blog, but in light of all the hard lessons I’ve learned while on the road, I feel that its my duty to inform you of certain useful travel wisdom that I’ve picked up along the way. And my first piece of advice is:
NEVER FLY WITH AEROFLOT.
Why? Because, according to Aeroflot ticketing agents at Narita Airport in Tokyo, Aeroflot doesn’t use the internet, like, at all, ever. They keep no records of who is supposed to be on the flight, and they still only issue paper tickets, and if you lose the ticket, then you are massively screwed. My particular brand of massive screwing came in the form of being stranded at Narita Airport in Tokyo—no phone, no money, no ticket—just a lot of heavy luggage in a pile and a tenuous grasp of formal conversational Japanese—the kind that’s better suited for such prosaic affairs as politely accepting business cards from elders, and not for more delicate social manoeuvres like frantically bargaining with ticket agents for a seat on a plane that was already paid for.
So I pleaded with the ticketing agents for hours, slowly moving up the chain of authority until I reached the manager, to whom I then showed an email from my travel agent containing the receipt of the ticket. At that point, most airlines might be convinced that maybe, just maybe, you actually had purchased a ticket for the flight. But not Aeroflot—they’ve got to have the ticket in the flesh, run their methodical little fingers along the cardstock and eyeball the seat assignment to believe it–and I’d be lying if I said a bit of the materialist in me didn’t respect such pragmatism on their part. But that made it no less infuriating when the manager just continued to stare blankly at me while cruelly reciting the ‘no ticket-no fly’ mantra of evil.
The cheapest Aeroflot ticket to Paris was $5000, (it was hearing the number which started the tears, if I remember correctly) and considering that the band had already spent about $2000 on the (now missing) ticket, I was unwilling to have the total cost reach near-college-tuition levels. So I needed to find another ticket on another airline immediately. But without a phone or credit card, and about 1000 bucks on my checking card, how could I do this?
Second piece of advice: when stranded in a strange country with no money or cell phone,
SKYPE IS YOUR BFF.
It’s the cheapest and most convenient (no foreign currency involved!) way to make international emergency phone calls. I skyped my manager to see if he could negotiate with Aeroflot, and then my boyfriend, who used Orbitz to find (and purchase) another ticket out of Narita—at a fraction of the Aeroflot’s price, and with my favorite airline (at the time), British Airways. It seemed as though my prayers had been answered. Alas, I couldn’t foresee the treachery ahead—the dreaded Heathrow layover. Still worse—a Heathrow layover before Paris’ Charles de Gualle Airport—a double threat. (C.D.G’s employees really take the ‘’laissez-faire’ attitude to heart which isn’t exactly comforting when you’ve got shit to do, like find lost luggage, or your gate number). My third piece of advice:
NEVER HAVE A LAYOVER IN HEATHROW, ESPECIALLY WHEN FLYING BA.
I made it safely to Paris, and comfortably too, because British Airways has the best coach seats of all. My luggage, however, was not so lucky. It was lost in the Bermuda-triangle-esque vortex that is Heathrow, where it still orbits today. (I like to believe that it exists in the kind of improbability field imagined in the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Universe-floating around, changing from a piece of luggage, to a tulip, to a clown nose, to a sniffling orphan, and then back to a piece of luggage again…)
Anyway, I was obviously miffed about having lost all the cute and irreplaceable Japanese souvenirs that I collected, as well as several nice tour outfits, but what really killed me was that my Roland SPDS drum machine was in that bag, aka, my baby. A baby that is an essential part of our performance, and I still had about ten big festival shows ahead of me. What followed after the layover was a few hellish weeks dedicated to through the procurement and reprogramming of a new drum machine, while avenging the loss of my old one through a series of letters, visits to Heathrow’s terminal four, and general petulance towards both the British and French BA offices, who as far as I could tell, delighted in my panic. I noticed my first grey hair that summer, and I can thank them for that, as well as the dizzying sum of money I haemorrhaged on new equipment. On the bright side, I had the good fortune to work with a sound engineer in Belgium who was best friends with the inventor of the Roland SPDS. So when I finally got a hold of another SPDS, the sound engineer called the inventor and had him personally walk me through the entire reprogramming process, which was (for me) akin to having John Lennon teach you how to write a song. Another stroke of serendipity was getting to play along with a few incredible drummers like Lee from Camera Obscura and Francis from Teenage Fanclub, both who happened to be performing at the same festivals as us and who kindly took pity on our situation. (It was at the festivals where I discovered that I wasn’t the only one who had been injured by British Airways—many bands had been equally screwed that summer.)
and you don’t have to take my word for it!
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4158/is_20080220/ai_n24312839
Thankfully, this summer tour ended without me losing anything besides a little sanity when I was the unfortunate victim of Delta and Iberian Airline’s mutual uncooperativeness. Iberian Airlines got me into Heathrow twenty minutes late, causing me to be too late to check in for my Delta flight, but Delta had to cancel the flight anyway due to technical problems, and neither airline felt like taking responsibility for the situation. Eventually, Iberia agreed to put me up in a hotel for the night in London, and Delta reissued the ticket for the following day—but that agreement was made only after the two airlines jockeyed me three times between terminal two and four with all my luggage. At one point, I was afraid that Delta had lost my luggage, but they assured me that they hadn’t, adding, “Who do you think we are? British Airways!?’ and laughed. Unbelievable. (I passed the BA lost baggage department, and considered asking someone about my drum machine, but decided not to out of exhaustion.)
I got home two nights ago, and discovered that my internet is down, so I now have to blog out of the local internet café. I also saw a mouse run across my living room floor, which is troubling. But in general, I’m very happy to be home!
In science news, this was a big week for the Cassini-Huygens mission, which I plan on talking about tomorrow. And I’m also still trying to wrangle an interview to post before Saturday. In A.R.S news, we’re doing a kind of last-minute photoshoot for Blackbook magazine tomorrow, which is followed by a cocktail party that we’re DJing at. The three of us have all been getting into DJing lately, which seems to be the inevitable fate of all off-touring musicians these days—but I don’t mind. I like forcing people to dance to the music of my choosing. Perhaps all DJs have god-complexes? I need to find a real DJ to interview about this…